DBA Army IV/13ab: Medieval Germans

The army arrayed: DBA IV/13ab, Medieval German (Braunschweig)

One of the beautiful things about DBA is that all of the armies are the same size.  Once you paint 12 elements, you have a complete army and you never have to paint anything for that army again.

Except, it’s a lie!  A dirty, dirty lie! 

In order to field all of the available options for some armies, you have to paint far more than the 12 minimum required elements.  The winner of this dubious award is Medieval French, requiring 29 elements to field all possible options.  Apparently I got off easy painting these Medieval Germans, which only require 20 elements for the (a) list.  I painted all options except the 2x4Pk, but I included an extra Knight so I could field it as a DBA 2.2 (b) list as well by using deep sabot bases for the 6Kn elements.

The elements are 6x3Kn, 4x4Sp, 4x4Bd, 2x3Ax, 2x2Ps, 1x4Cb.  This will build the dismounting knights for IV/13a or the double-based knights from IV/13b.  In the proposed DBA 3 lists, this builds the IV/13b list with mandatory blades but no dismounting.

The Knights: 6x3Kn, or 2x6Kn, 2x3Kn.

Even though the army lists are under revision and will likely change before DBA 3.0 is released, I’m confident that I’ll be able to field a legal Medieval German army with these elements.

All of the shields are hand painted.  The foot figures use painted highlights on their red coats, but I used a Devlan Mud wash on the horses for expedience. I skipped painting lions on the horse cloths, but I bet you didn’t notice, did you?

4x4Sp.

I decided that one of the main reasons I don’t like most of the Medieval DBA armies I’ve seen is that they are too gaudy.  Typically, people either paint a wide variety of generic coats of arms that may or may not be accurate, so they can morph the army for use as any medieval army; or they accurately research 30 different coats of arms and it still ends up looking to me like a bazooka festival at a paint factory.

The best looking German army I’ve seen was painted by Scott Ludwig, and his work is directly responsible for convincing me to paint a Medieval army.  He chose a single set of heraldic devices and painted a unified color scheme across the whole army.  I decided that whether or not it was accurate, I’d do the same thing.

2x3Ax.  

Since I was looking for an ally for King Valdemar II the Victorious of Denmark, I chose the coat of arms of Braunschweig.  Otto I “the child”, duke of Braunschweig-Lüneburg, was Valdemar II’s nephew, and allied with Denmark against all enemies in the first half of the 13th century.  Things started to go wrong at the Battle of Bornhöved, where they both lost, and Otto was captured and imprisoned.

The coat of arms I chose, two gold lions on a red field, is that of Braunschweig (Brunswick).  It may be anachronistic for Braunschweig or Otto I at the time of the Battle of Bornhöved, but I found at least one source on the Internet that associates these arms with Braunschweig.  Who trusts the Internet anyway?  As a result, there are now two sources on the Internet, and the lies turn into truth by repetition…

1x4Cb, 2x2Ps.

The figures themselves are from Black Hat miniatures, part of the old Gladiator line.  These are very nice figures, I have absolutely no regrets regarding my figure choice.  They are well sculpted and highly detailed.  The faces are very distinctive, and I could see how someone might not like them, but I definitely do.  This is the same manufacturer that made the Auxilia I used in my Leidang army, and they definitely go well together.

4x4Bd, dismounted knights for IV/13a.

The Knights and Blades are technically a bit late for the Battle of Bornhöved.  They are closer to 1275 than 1227.  If I believed Denmark should be using primarily kite shields at this time, why didn’t I think the same for Germany?  It’s not like they’re very far away from each other.

Instead, I bought a few more blades to augment my Leidang in case we ever decide to field a triple army.

I am very pleased with the way this army turned out, but slightly paranoid about the accuracy.  I like to get things correct, but I’m not willing to spend money or an inordinate amount of time to ensure that they’re correct.  In the mean time, I can sustain myself with the dubious honor that comes with painting 82 microscopic yellow lions.

Rebasing miniatures? This is madness!

Madness?  This is Sparta!

To be more specific: this is my newly renovated DBA army II/5a, Later Hoplite Greeks: Spartans.  I didn’t actually rebase them, I only redecorated the bases they were already mounted on.  Not very dramatic, I know; but I don’t have a bottomless pit handy, so it was the next best thing.

The army arrayed: DBA II/5a, Spartans. Essex DBA v1 army pack.
The left half of the line: 6x4Sp.
5x4Sp(Gen), 1x2Ps.  General is on the far left.

This was the first army I finished painting for DBA, and the first 15mm figures I ever painted.  It was around 2003, and I found a few DBA v1 army packs on discount.  For the most part, the Spartan army didn’t change at all for DBA 2.0 (at the time); though more options were available in the 2.0 list.  These 12 elements were the only options provided in the original Essex army pack: 11x4Sp, 1x2Ps.  I later augmented the list with the other options available in 2.0, with slightly better basing: 1x4Ax, 1x3Cv (not shown here).

By the time I came back to DBA years later, my basing standards had improved.  These guys were painted well enough, but they looked like they were standing in a pool of toxic waste.  I repainted the ground brown, and added flock and static grass.  It’s as close as I can come to my current basing technique without fully rebasing the figures.

I also took the opportunity to reattach spears and do some touchups.  They won’t be winning any painting contests, but I’ll feel better using them… and at least I don’t have to paint another 11 elements of hoplites any time soon.

Now that I know a bit more, I don’t like these figures (or any Essex hoplites) for a few reasons.  Essex hoplite shields are too small, aren’t as round as they could be, and have no rim.  The single pose doesn’t bother me, because I prefer a “toy soldier” look for heavy foot.  However, I absolutely cannot stand forward-facing spears: they’re unusable in practice on such shallow bases, even if they more or less accurately depict fighting hoplites.  In the future if I build any more hoplites, they’ll all be holding their spears upright.

DBA Army IV/65: Wallachians

I love counting people! Let’s begin.  One impaled merchant, Wa ha ha ha!

I’m sorry, that was Count von Count, not Vlad the Impaler.  I always get those two mixed up.

Vlad the Impaler, not to be confused with Santa Claus.

Here is my new DBA Wallachian army, IV/65: 1x3Cv (gen), 3x2LH, 5xPs, 2x3Bw, 1x5Wb.

I decided to paint Wallachians mainly because the new Essex figures looked so good.  The army list is “not competitive in an Open tournament” and doesn’t fare well in DBA against most of its contemporaries.  5 psiloi in 1330-1504?  AD?  Besides, who the heck were the Wallachians anyway?

That last part is easy: Vlad the Impaler!  Vlad III Tepes, aka “Dracula” (son of Dracul, his familial name meaning “dragon”) is considered the prototype for Bram Stoker’s vampire.  Sometimes I think he’d be a good Darth Vader, given Vader’s penchant for killing people off.  Wallachia was a part of what is now Romania.

Wallachian Light Horse.

This army is from an Essex DBA 2.2 army pack.  Most of the figures are from the new Wallachian/Moldovian line, but the cavalry General consists of older figures from other lines.

Wallachian and generic Psiloi.

The Light Horse figures are very interesting.  Unlike any other Essex mounted figure I’ve ever painted, these are cast in a single piece except for the spears.  They have very nice details and sculpting, and are well proportioned.  However, the poses are quite flat.  There is enough of a variety of poses to be interesting, but they vary mostly only in their heads and armament.

Wallachian bows and generic Warband.

There are 5 Psiloi elements.  The army pack provided three elements of Wallachian spears and two elements of generic light medieval crossbowmen.  For the shield designs on the light horse and psiloi elements, I referred to Wallachian heraldry online as well as WRG’s Armies of the Middle Ages 2.  There are only a few true heraldic devices, with the rest being merhant marks. Besides being the only source I could find, this felt somewhat appropriate, since Vlad made a hobby of killing off all the nobility as painfully as possible.

The two units of bows were from the Wallachian line, but the warband was a generic horde.

Overall I’m very happy with the figures and my paint job.  I would’ve preferred to see a few more of the Wallachian-specific psiloi, but I expect that they chose alternate figures for a reason. The other non-Wallachian figures were well chosen and fill their role well.

I haven’t played this army yet, and don’t know when I will.  Besides not having many opportunities to play recently while I’m so busy with work, there aren’t many opponents I’d bother irritating with this band of light troops.  Hopefully there will be a good Eastern European themed event for me to bring them to before Murphy’s Law totally revamps the list for DBA 3.0.

Rant: apparently Shimano 105 hub bearings suck

This year has been horrible for flat tires.  While repairing my latest rear flat today, an explosive pinch flat on a massive pothole (“spring” in Pittsburgh is measured by the potholes and not the weather), I noticed my rear hub bearings were loose, so I investigated.

I examined the drive side cone and it had a pit in the surface. Maybe that’s why it was so noisy.  I found a spare cone and started replacing it… but then I looked at the other cone and it was way worse: it had pitting all the way around.  The hub was still packed with grease (no dirt), and had only 7-10k miles on it.  (I didn’t pull out the balls and examine them.)

Maybe the damage was caused by the fact that the hub bearings were loose, but I’d expect them to be loose after so much pitting and wear on the bearing surfaces. In any case, I’ve never heard of bearings loosening while installed on the bike.

This isn’t my first problem with this wheel set (it even matches!), either.  Within a year after buying these wheels, I had a horrible noise in the front wheel, and investigation revealed that the balls themselves were severely pitted.  That wheel hasn’t had any problems since I repacked it with new balls.

These are Shimano 105 road hubs bought new only 3 or so years ago.  I thought these were supposed to be better than off-brand hubs.  Maybe 7-10k miles is “better,” in these days when department store bikes are ridden an average of 20 miles total, and “real” bikes have their components upgraded every year to keep up with changing fashion.

Stoogecon: a Matched Pair?

Stoogecon was a few weeks ago.  As with last year’s event, the tournaments were three rounds long: an Open and Matched Pairs.  Unlike in previous years, the DBM folks showed up as well, and even managed to get as many players as “we” (the DBA players) did.  Although I mainly want to share my thoughts about my choice of Matched Pair armies, I’ll start with a summary of the day.

In the Open, we apparently all had the same idea: “everyone likes medieval knight armies, so I’ll take elephants.”  I brought Rajput Indians, III/10b. The other players had Tamil Indians, Graeco-Indian, Southern Dynasty Chinese, New Kingdom Egyptians, and Romans.

A quick summary of my Open games: In round 1, Frank with Tamil Indians beat me in a close and hard-fought match, 4-3.  In round 2, I shouldn’t have gone into the bad going, and Rich’s Chinese punished me for it, 4-1. In the last round, Larry’s Egyptians ran up to me and committed ritual suicide: I won 2g-0 on the bound Larry first contacted me.

For the Matched Pairs event, I chose Early Bedouin, I/6c, vs. Later Achaemenid Persian, II/7.  Bedouins have: 3x3Cm (Gen), 1x2Cm, 4x3Ax, 4x2Ps.  I gave the Persians 1xLCh (Gen), 2x3Cv, 2xLH, 4x3Ax, 3x2Ps.  The basic difference is the Bedouin camels are better vs. mounted, but there are fewer of them.  Bedouins have the possibility of Dunes, but with Ag: 3 to 1 they’ll rarely get to use them. 

So, is this a well-matched pair?  I’ll share my thoughts after a summary of the event.

In the first round, I played against Jim using his armies: I played Middle Imperial Romans vs. his Later Imperial Romans.  I didn’t feel like I made any big mistakes during play, but still ended up continuing my losing streak against him: 4-0. 

In the second round, we used my armies, and JM chose Bedouins.  These armies have low combat factors, so they’re fast and bloody.  I don’t remember the details of the battle, but it was a total rout: I won 6g-1. 

In the third and final round, we played my armies again and Frank chose the Persians.  Surprisingly, the Bedouins won terrain and of course placed some big central dunes. That whole “rout” thing worked so well, I tried it again… only this time I was Bedouin, so I lost 5-2.

At this point my conclusion may be obvious, but I first want to make it clear that I really enjoy playing either one of these armies against the other.  I’ve had some tense and interesting games, and even the routs didn’t look totally hopeless until the dice started rolling.  Using primarily light troops means you run faster, so you get into combat faster with less time to rearrange lines before contact; and the low combat factors mean someone dies quickly.  You’ll never end up with an incomplete game, in any case.

The basic premise of this matched pair is to take two similar but slightly different armies, with similar compositions but relative strengths and weaknesses. Bedouin camels have an advantage against mounted but a penalty against foot, and don’t suffer bad going penalties if they happen to find a dune to stand in.  Persians have more mounted, but less bad going troops.

Despite these seemingly even odds, I don’t think I’ve ever seen the Bedouins win.  It can certainly be done, and there have been some close games, but overall I don’t think the pair is as well-matched as I used to.  After Stoogecon, I considered why this might be, and came up with a few ideas.

First of all, “dunes” are mostly a red herring.  Bedouin will rarely get a chance to place dunes at all, only 6/36 of the time.  If you do get dunes, they can probably be used effectively, but I haven’t done it correctly yet.  The benefit of dunes in this matchup is not that camels fight in them without penalty; it is the camels’ ability to move through dunes as a group.  No Persian player would be dumb enough to put their Cavalry near the dunes, so the camels will only be facing foot… but the camels aren’t very good against foot.  So, deploy the dunes for disruptive PIP advantage, rather than as a central terrain to fight over.

The other problem is the nature of the armies’ advantages.  Bedouin camels are better against cavalry, which is 5 elements; but they’re worse against foot, the other 7 elements. Their advantage turns a cavalry matchup from 3-3 into a 4-3, which increases their odds of a kill from 2/36 to 4/36 and a recoil from 15/36 to 21/36. Their disadvantage against supported auxilia goes from 3-3 to 2-3: 2/36 chance of being killed up to 6/36, and 15/36 recoil up to 21/36.  Against unsupported auxilia, 3-2 to 2-2 reduces the chance of a kill from 6/36 to 4/36, while increasing the chance of being killed from 1/36 to 4/36.

So basically, Bedouins get a lesser advantage against fewer foes, and a larger disadvantage against more foes.

The overall dynamic is that the Persians are happy playing with their entire force out in the open, while the Bedouins want to keep their foot in bad going to stay away from the enemy Cavalry.  They have to choose to either stay in bad going and give the Persians both numerical advantage in the open and overall PIP advantage; or to come into the open and give the Persians combat factor advantage

Not all of these factors played into every loss I’ve seen, but in my previous attempts to use this matched pair I came away with similarly skewed result.

Overall, I have a bit of a dilemma.  I really enjoy playing this pair of armies, but I no longer think it’s an even match.  I either need to figure out how to win with Bedouin, since I already know how to win with Persia; or find another matched pair that I enjoy playing as much as this one even when I’m losing.  Any ideas?

Post Tax Day BBDBA 2011

Last weekend I drove out to Columbus, and Mike and I played BBDBA at the Post Tax Day event.  It was a fun time, definitely worth going to Ohio.  I hope to go back for future DBA events out there.

Unlike my other BBDBA tournament experience, this was a singles event instead of doubles.  I borrowed JM’s Hittite army so I could field double Hittites (I/24a) with a Mitanni (I/19) ally.  My planning ahead of time was limited to figuring out how to break the army into commands, and considering general defensive deployment (but not terrain placement).  In all three games, my commands were split as follows:

  • High PIP: 4xLCh(CinC), 9xSp, 3xPs.
  • Low PIP: 4xLCh(Gen), 3xSp, 1xPs.
  • Ally: 6xLCh, 2xAx, 3xPs, 1xHd.

I’m a bit of a wuss, so the Mitanni horde never left the camp.

Game 1: Hittites

Brian Peruski with Hittites

The first game was a Hittite civil war: I faced Brian Peruski’s triple Hittites (I/24b).  Our army compositions were similar, but he had knights instead of cavalry, and I had the Mitanni ally.

I defended, and placed fairly open terrain with two roads and woods.  My army wanted some bad going to play with, but not a lot.  I placed my Hittites first, with the spears supported and in two ranks as shown here.  This provided good defense against knights, and the symmetrical deployment allowed me to deploy my Mitanni on whichever flank I though I could gain an advantage on, while leaving chariots to protect the other flank.

Although I hoped to face knights with my spears, I didn’t expect it.  Although knights quick kill spears, the combat factors are horrible if the spears have support.

Brian deployed with one command poised to go into the woods on my right flank, and a mounted command on my left.  My choice at this point was to try to figure out which command was his low PIP command, so I could ignore it and concentrate on the other side instead.  I deployed against his mounted-heavy command, and left my right flank relatively open.

It turned out I was wrong about his commands: his mid PIP was on my right and his low PIP was on my left.  In the first turn, Brian ran down the road, and everywhere else we advanced in an orderly fashion.  This left his column of spear ahead of the rest of his force, and within striking range of my chariots.

For the remainder of the game, three chariots from my high PIP command delayed and distracted his mid PIP command on my right flank.  He was never able to bring the rest of his troops up to support his spear. In the center, we pushed back and forth until I killed off some knights and held my advantage. On my left flank, I outflanked and destroyed him.

Eventually I broke his C-in-C command in the center, after suffering a loss of 6 elements.  The final score was 88-12 in my favor.  My first win in tournament BBDBA!

Mike’s Early Crusaders are run down by Brian’s Hittites.

This game reaffirmed my faith in well-supported spears against knights.  Brian learned from his mistake of deploying his knights against my spears, and in the second game he crushed Mike by deploying his spears against Mike’s knights. 

This also provided a great example of Economy of Force.  Holding off 10 of Brian’s elements with only 3 of mine made a huge difference.  Early on, I was afraid I made a mistake by placing both roads, because they ended up providing Brian with as much mobility as they provided me.  Luckily, facing my chariots left him without enough PIPs for the rest of his force to advance.

Game 2: Medieval Swedish

John Lawitzke with Medieval Scandinavians (Sweden).

Ugh, what a nightmare.  I totally screwed this one up. 

John Lawitzke defended with his Medieval Scandinavians (IV/54c): blades and bows galore.  As in his first game against Mike, he placed a fortress of maximum sized forest and marsh in front of a waterway.

Clearly he wanted to sit inside the fortress and not outside it, so I made the only good decision all game by choosing to place the waterway at my rear.  He placed his camp centrally, and I deployed mine on my far right flank so I could deploy at least part of my force in front of the bad going.

After he deployed centrally, I started screwing up.  First of all, I didn’t deploy a strong force against his C-in-C command, but instead virtually ignored it.  Second of all, I spent way too much effort attempting to prevent a littoral landing.  I could’ve lost both camps on the first few turns, but since his army was so slow I should’ve had plenty of time to recapture them before he hit me.  Instead, I bottled up my troops and made it impossible to maneuver.

When we first met in combat, it didn’t look like a completely lost cause until after I rolled the dice.  I had some advantageous combats, but they all failed; this turned my disadvantageous combats into epic fails, and I lost several elements.  After that, I never had a combat that was in my favor for the rest of the game.

He quickly crushed the Mitanni on my right flank, and then demoralized my C-in-C command.  By the end of the game I was cheering when I simply caused a recoil.  He beat me 100-0.  Doh!

Game 3: Antigonids

Scott Ludwig with Asiatic Early Successors (II/16a).

In the third game, I defended against Scott Ludwig’s Early Asiatic Successors: Antigonos (II/16a).  My terrain placement was intended to encourage him to choose his side of the table, and to anchor his pikes on the woods on his baseline.  It worked.  The hill on my left was steep and on the right it was gentle.

I used the same symmetric deployment as in the first game, but with a single rank of spears where I assumed his pikes would be.  After he deployed where I hoped he would, I placed my Mitanni where they could play on the steep hill and restrict his options on that flank.

Scott’s command split was pretty severe.  He had 18xPk (C-in-C) and 1xLH in his low PIP command.  This is just enough PIPs to walk forward in a straight line, but it provided no room for maneuver.  The key to my survival was clearly based in not letting him poke me with his long pointy sticks.  On my right flank, his mid PIP command had 6xPs, 1xLH(Gen) in the woods.  On my left was all of his mounted in a high PIP attack wing.

He advanced his pike line with his psiloi in support on my right flank.  There was a mistake in there somewhere, but I’m not sure what the better answer would have been.  The three chariots on my right flank killed off the entire psiloi command before starting to outflank his pikes.

In the center, I really didn’t want to face his pikes.  I advanced as far as necessary to gain a hill advantage, and then sent my psiloi into “pain in the ass” mode.  They played between the lines, forcing him to shift sideways to align with my group of psiloi, and then preventing him from advancing more than 5-10mm at a time before contacting another psiloi unless he broke formation.  His troops were well trained and stayed in line, but it was virtually impossible for him to gain ground.  His 1-2 PIPs per turn were dedicated to fending off my chariot attack on his pike’s flank.

My left flank was most interesting, tactically.  I had superior numbers and terrain advantage; he had superior combat factors.  It wasn’t clear whether I’d be able to turn his flank on my right before he gained an advantage on my left.

After the death of Scott’s high PIP general.

He broke through my line with his elephants, demoralized my low PIP command, and started killing spears in my high PIP command.  In the end, I won with a bit of a Deus Ex Dice: I set up an advantageous combat against his high PIP command’s general and killed him.  With his low PIP command completely destroyed and his high PIP command demoralized, and almost no PIPs available to advance his pike line, he conceded.  He’d have been hard pressed to keep his three elephants on the board, since they were in 2 groups and cost 3 PIPs per group to avoid retreat.  In the end, I won 78-22.

This game was another great example of economy of force, but I was able to make a strong offensive strike against his psiloi since my light chariots quick kill them.  He might have been better off rotating his pike line on the bad going, letting him keep some of his psiloi in the woods.

I was really happy with my terrain placement.  It was minimal enough to look harmless, but provided exactly the function I wanted it to.  In some games my plan would be too obvious and therefore easy to ignore.  However, it’s still sometimes a good tradeoff to give the enemy the terrain they’re looking for in exchange for terrain you’re looking for. The alternative is no one getting the terrain they want, which may be just as good.

Summary

In the end, I came in 5th place out of 10 with 166 points.  Mike won a game as well, in the third round and his third game of BBDBA ever.  I didn’t even have to exercise my “bring a new player so you’ll have someone to beat” option.

This whole “BBDBA singles” thing has a lot more of the feel of a DBA event than a BBDBA doubles event.  In the end, it’s still DBA and I enjoy DBA.  Mike wasn’t sure whether he’d like the longer game length of BBDBA, especially when you’re losing, but he had a good time and continues to have enthusiasm for DBA.

Hittites with Mitanni ally are a bit more interesting than I expected, compared to Hittites in a single army.  If I were playing triple Hittites, I’d definitely prefer the later Hittites with heavy chariots.

The Mitanni are a very useful ally for several reasons.  Their combination of bad going and chariots is a good mix when facing a mounted command near bad going.  I also liked the PIP distribution with this ally.  I never felt like I was PIP screwed even when I was rolling low, and I really enjoyed the fact that my low PIP command typically had more PIPs than a triple army’s low PIP command.

Thanks for the great event, I hope to be back for more DBA in the future!

Speed painting: Elf Blades

Just before Cold Wars (like, a day or two before), I wanted to augment my Hordes of the Things Elf army with some blades, so I picked up some figures in the Legions bits bin.

GW Elf blades based for Hordes of the Things.

Since I didn’t have much time, I did a rush job on these to match the paint job of the rest of the army. I completed everything from assembly through letting the paint dry in one night.  They suffered a bit in the rush: they were rained on after the dip dried and before I sprayed them with dullcote.  I dried them out, but unfortunately I missed a few spots, which created some craters under the varnish in the low spots.    I’m over it.

Greek Shields

I won an auction for a painted 25mm DBA Hoplite Greek army at Fall-In.  Hey, it was for the kids!  I’m not sure if I’ll play 25mm DBA, but I can use it for HOTT as well.

I rebased the army and painted shield designs.  The rest of the paint job is nothing to write home about, but here are the shield patterns I painted.  Two shields have decals, as labelled below; I painted the rest.

The leftmost two are decals, the rest I painted.

More Indians

In order to morph my Hindu Indian III/10c: Other army into Hindu Indian III/10b: Rajput, I needed at least one knight and an extra blade.  We also needed a LH general for the Mountain Indians at Cold Wars.  So, I painted some more Indians.

Essex Rajput Knights

Here is the Rajput knight.  These are Essex figures from their Moghul Indian range.  They match some of the cavalry figures from my existing Hindu Indian army, except they have armored horses.  I used a bit more interesting colors than on the rest of the Hindu Indians, which is probably a bit more accurate.

Indian Blades: Outpost and Museum miniatures

Since I needed one more element of blade, I decided to paint all of them.  This allows me to morph my Hindu Indians into Tamil Indians II/42b, and gives me a head start on a double Hindu/Tamil army.  Most of these figures are from the Outpost Tamil/Hindu Indian line.  The sculpting is detailed, but not very deep.  There are 3-4 different poses, all with a sword and a small buckler.

The club-wielding half giants with bad hair are from Museum Miniatures.  I like most of Museum’s Indian figures, but these guys are just ugly.  The sculpting is adequate with deepset features, but the single pose is pretty bad.  They’re taller than the Outpost figures, as well as some of the other Museum Indians.

Museum Indian Light Horse general

The Light Horse general is also from Museum Miniatures, and was a part of their Mountain Indian army pack.  These light cavalry figures have only a single pose, and like all Museum cavalry I’ve seen, they’re cast in a single piece.  These aren’t my favorite figures from the Indian line; I much prefer their bow and spear infantry.

The army pack didn’t come with any way to distinguish the General stand, so I painted the horses white.  I’ve started painting white horses by starting with grey and bringing the highlights up towards “almost white.”  It gives a bit of a greyish look, but I like it better than the results I get by washing a white horse.

To finish a second Hindu/Tamil Indian army, I now need to paint a bunch of bowmen, some elephants, and some cavalry.  I should probably paint some more knights for the Rajput as well, eventually.  I find that Indian infantry goes really quickly, so I’ve already prepared the bowmen for painting.  I don’t have any deadline or goals in mind for the Indians, so I’ll just fit them in when I have time and motivation.

Hittite Camp

Here is a camp I built for my Hittites.  It is based on images in the Osprey book Hittite Fortifications, c. 1650-700BC.

The wall is built in two sections, each of which is the maximum size allowed for a camp: 40mm x 120mm.  The left section with the gate will be my camp for a single Hittite army, and I’ll add the extra wall section when playing BBDBA with a Mitanni ally.

The walls and towers are constructed of styrofoam cut on the bandsaw.  The crenellations are made of mat board, and the exposed beams are short pieces of balsa.  I brushed on water based primer and varnish, since spray paint and superglue destroy foam.  

At this point I’m officially finished with any modelling required before After Tax Day BBDBA.